2012 books

May. 19th, 2012 09:07 am
peteryoung: (Default)


6) Siriworn Kaewkan, The Murder Case of Tok Imam Storpa Karde, 2006
There are very few novels that explore the separatist terrorism affecting the three small Thai provinces that border Malaysia, and this one, shortlisted for the 2006 SEA Write Award, quickly became required reading that year with an English translation following four years later. So who killed the much-loved imam in the small village of Tanyong Baru, right outside his own mosque? Terrorists or State officials? Soldiers or police? Is there a suspicious connection with a neighbouring Buddhist village? And why are the villagers closing their doors to an actual investigation? The reader's guess is as good as anyone elses, which indicates the clever structure of this tale of deflections and half-truths that inevitably views the subject from an outsider's perpective yet at the same time lets the story's participants speak (seemingly, often less than truthfully) for themselves. Kaewkan simply provides the necessary pieces to the jigsaw then lets the readers assemble it in a way that indicates there's an inevitable collective madness going on here. There are a number of possible courses of events discernable if this short novel is read closely, which is easily done in one sitting – just don't expect a straightforward whodunnit.

2011 books

Jan. 2nd, 2012 02:06 pm
peteryoung: (Default)


33) Tew Bunnag, Fragile Days, 2001
Nine stories that work well together as a cross-section of lives lived in Bangkok, from the poorest to the richest. These are less tales of status and stasis than stories of the different social strata intermixing and encountering each other, such as in 'The Flower Girl' in which a street orphan is adopted by a rich widow, or 'Jeed Finds Her Brother' in which a country girl finds out the truth about her missing brother's life in Bangkok. These encounters inevitably leave the characters changed, yet somehow everyone at some point is a victim of the city itself, the Big Mango, for the better as often as for the worse. It's hard to pick any story that stands out above the rest, although for characterisation the final story 'Love Heals Tammy' is the one that puts across best how Thais are prepared to look to the positive and be transformed by it. Bunnag also caps off the stories with a non-fiction epilogue titled 'An Ode to the City' in which he spells out his feelings on the ugliness of Bangkok itself, while declaring an undying admiration for the people who would dare to live in such a place. This is a lovely collection.
peteryoung: (Eye)
terminal interior, at night

I've just discovered that this photo of the terminal interior at Bangkok's Suvarnabhumi Airport is among a selection of photos being used to illustrate the term 'departure gate' at IncreaseMyVocabulary.com. No objection to its use there as it links back to the photo's Flickr page, but a notification would have been appreciated. And how they found it in the first place shows the rewards of keywording your photos, something I really ought to do more of at Flickr.

Nov. 11th, 2011 10:47 pm
peteryoung: (Default)


27) Tew Bunnag, After the Wave, 2005
Tew Bunnag is a relatively new author on the Thai scene, and this collection of six stories are all centred around the 2004 tsunami which devastated Thailand's west coast. As mostly stories of ordinary people whose lives are disrupted by that extraordinary event, this being Thailand it's perhaps inevitable that ghosts also make an appearance as a thread that Bunnag uses to subtly link several of the stories: this was the side to his writing that I found the most enjoyable – how the tsunami somehow also became intertwined with the lives of Thailand's ghosts; also his frequent references to the sea-gypsies known as the Moken whom Bunnag clearly knows quite well. A good collection that's impossible to find in bookstores outside Thailand but is available from the small press Metta Visions.
peteryoung: (Default)


Here's the current satellite image on Google Maps, taken on 31 October, of flooding in our immediate area of the Khlong Sam Wa district of Bangkok. Our house location there is marked with a yellow arrow. Even at a higher magnification than this the roads are still invisible, just plenty of muddy water everywhere instead. So glad I moved valuables upstairs a month ago when we first heard our district was at risk, but I don't yet know the precise extent of the height of the water around our house. Most of the neighbours have moved away for the time being; in fact half the flood refugees are probably now in Hua Hin, two-and-a-half hours' drive south, where the hotels are now just about all full and there's now a water *shortage* as a result. This is probably because Hua Hin doesn't have its own reservoir and the hotels are (once again) getting first dibs on water over the city residents – we had no water supply at home in Hua Hin today, but we do have a large tank although it's now only half full. Hope things improve tomorrow. I'll be back there in a few days, so I can't wait to see what other major and minor hassles November will bring.

As bad as this has become, I'm reminding myself that it's certainly no worse than what happens to Bangladesh every year, and how much have we seen or heard about their plight lately? Here's an IFRC photo essay from Bangladesh in August, which describes a far worse experience. At least our house is made of bricks.
peteryoung: (Fat Controller)
For anyone who may have been wondering what's my situation re. the flooding in Bangkok: as much as I'm averse to Facebook I've posted far more about this over there because I have friends on FB who are similarly affected (or worse), and we're trying to keep each other updated. Don't want everyone else on my LJ Friends List to feel neglected...

So yesterday the floodwater arrived as expected: our last report was that it's now in the street directly outside our place (it's Benji's old house, which we have not yet put up for sale). The water is probably about 10cm deep or more which means it's probably higher than our driveway and flowing around our front door, which is fortunately slightly raised about another 5cm so it may yet get inside if the water gets any deeper. Just about the entire estate of 50 square kilometres is now underwater to varying degrees. It's mostly large rice fields intercut with slightly elevated roads, but the main road a few kilometres away is anywhere up to 2 metres higher so it's now lined with hundreds of parked cars. No crocodiles sighted as yet from any nearby croc farm; like other croc farms around Bangkok they may have to be released if the local flooding gets considerably worse. Here's a gratuitous news photo from last week of an unexpected visitor dropping in for a bite to eat:



Benji and Miles are now in Hua Hin, where it's 100% flood- and croc-free despite being completely swamped with refugees from Bangkok, and with a couple of similarly washed-out neighbours staying indefinitely. Me, I'm in Houston TX where it's drizabone, but I know where I'd rather be.

Ah well, nil desperandum.
peteryoung: (Default)
Thailand

Su Siebe   Thailand   2010

Finding online short stories in English by Thai writers ain't easy... in fact finding them in books, magazines and newspapers isn't a walk in the park either, probably because of the small number of competent Thai-to-English fiction translators working today (English-to-Thai, however, doesn't seem to present much of a problem here to publishers at all). Active among them is the Frenchman Marcel Barang, whose Wordpress blog thaifiction.com has begun making translated stories freely available every couple of weeks, and whose main site offers downloads at a very reasonable price. But... more please. Currently I don't think there is a single mainstream book publisher in Thailand publishing in English, and it can sometimes feel like a desert out here.

Tew Bunnag, 'Lek and Mrs. Miller'  (AFTER THE WAVE, 2005)
Written for broadcast by the BBC on the first anniversary of the 2004 tsunami. Lek is a young hotel worker in Phuket who feels strangely drawn to an English guest some time after the tsunami, and who learns that her purpose for being there echoes his own family's tragedy. A lot of what happens in this story is left unspoken, but I felt at last I had read a story that put the human losses of the local population on an even footing with that of their foreign visitors.

Chart Korbjitti, 'Disappearance'  (AN ORDINARY STORY (AND OTHERS LESS SO), 2010)
An experimental story about a man attending a relative's funeral in the South, where he learns of another relative who's disappeared... so what does this inspire him to do, and from whose perspective are we reading this? Somehow, this story cleverly puts across the interconnectedness of everybody, whether by blood, desire or even via the voyeurism of the internet, by remote strangers who follow mysterious disappearances.

Win Lyovarin, 'The Doll'  (THAT LIVING CREATURE CALLED MAN, 1999)
A two-time winner of the SEA Write Award, Lyovarin has long played effectively with experimental fiction. Here, the story's every sentence is a question asked by a pretty, simple-minded and too-trusting teenage girl whose mother, for clearly inferred reasons, is at her wit's end. This is a jarring and uncomfortable story, one that points at the selfish and thoughtless evil that men can do.

Atsiri Thammachoat, 'In the Night of Old Age'  (CHOR KARRAKEIT #55, 2011)
A solitary old man has little to live for except his nightly dreams of meeting his late parents and wife in the afterlife, yet last year's political rioting in Bangkok only increases his desire to join them. Inevitably melancholy, the contrast between his internal life and the events he witnesses on television seem to hint at how the passions of life itself can be polarised in ways other than political. This comes with the added bonus of the translator's notes alongside both the Thai and English text.

Favourite short story of the week: Rattawut Lapcharoensap, 'At the Café Lovely'  (SIGHTSEEING, 2005)
A re-read since I found it online this week, from the author's 2005 debut Sightseeing, and one of the highlights of that collection. A man recalls how, since his father died before he reached his teen years, he instead sought approval from his errant 17 year-old elder brother. This inevitably involves some premature coming-of-age experiences but I still find it believable, sympathetic and well observed. My only criticism is that the dialogue is perhaps too sharp and Americanised (Lapcharoensap is US-born and writes in English), but that doesn't stop this being among the most evocative stories about present-day Thailand that's currently online and freely available.

2011 books

Jul. 18th, 2011 10:39 am
peteryoung: (Default)


20) Collin Piprell, Bangkok Knights, 1989
Despite having lived here for two years now, this is only my third venture into Thailand's boisterous and often shady breed of expat fiction - my previous excursions all ended as disappointments. Canadian author and journalist Collin Piprell started out writing guide books for Thailand's diving community then worked his way into getting his short fiction published in the Bangkok Post. These are bar stories, yet their quality may be a cut above the rest in this often seedy sub-genre of world literature because Bangkok Knights has now received three different editions from three different publishers. If so, this collection probably sets a good 'bar story' standard: all of them are gently humorous or bittersweet in tone, neither outlandishly sexist nor patronising, and they share a cast of fairly well characterised (if rather clichéd) expat Western males combined with an assortment of colourful (if also rather clichéd) Thai females. What I expected to find, and certainly did, is that uneasy distrust that often sees them eyeing each other warily over the cultural barricades while still needing each other for various pre-determined selfish reasons, in fact it's often the cultural frisson that informs each story's plot.

The first-person narrator of all the stories remains largely invisible throughout except for a couple of episodes, one which describes a journalistic trip up the Maekok river that goes disastrously wrong (in fact the only non-bar story in the collection and probably the best), and the final outing which is an interesting mixture of relationship and identity crises running in parallel, something that probably comes upon any emotionally unattached, long-time expat resident of Thailand. Piprell has also written three novels, one of which is categorically science fiction. I expect I'll be reading them all.
peteryoung: (Eye)
the Robot Building

This photo of the famous Robot Building in Bangkok has just been sold by fotoLibra for a good sum, to an unknown buyer for a run of 5,000 posters. This was a surprise as I consider it a rather mediocre photo, taken as a response to a call for photos of specific buildings around the world that would be included in the excellent 1001 Buildings You Must See Before You Die. Strictly speaking this must be one of the few buildings in the world that was built with a somewhat science fictional intent: the Thai architect Sumet Jumsai was commissioned in the early 1980s to design a bank headquarters that reflected the idea of computerisation, and the final shape of it was actually inspired by his young son's toy robot. However it's become a difficult building to photograph properly from the street from any direction, a situation not helped by the more recent Skytrain elevation that now runs in front of it, and I took a whole bunch of rather average photos of the building on a scorching hot day in April 2007 of which this one is probably the best. It's a difficult building to show off in all its tongue-in-cheek glory, with its many giant bolts added to the sides and a pair of robotic eyes and antennae at the top. The building ended up being one of the few in the book that were not accompanied by a photograph, so this photo has languished for a few years before finding another buyer, to my complete surprise. For better detail, this photo must have been taken from an office window in the building on the left in this rather atmospheric evening shot.
peteryoung: (Miles)
Miles @ 19 months   Miles @ 19 months   Miles @ 14.5 months   Miles @ 17 months   Miles @ 17 months   Miles @ 15 months

Proof that Miles is officially the Coolest Kid in Town: these six photos have been blogged at Hua-Hin.com as part of their Pictures of Hua Hin photostream. No, I didn't submit them or anything; someone's been trawling Flickr and my stats showed someone had clicked through to the last one, which then meant wading through thirty-five pages of stuff (clearly not selected for artistic merit) only to find five more. But at least the photostream reflects that Hua Hin is in fact a decent enough place to live – and even though I won't be around for the annual reggae festival next month, the famous jazz festival in June is something I should at last get to see.

Apr. 18th, 2011 07:37 am
peteryoung: (Eye)
Another video from Terje Sørgjerd, similar to one I've linked to before of a train going directly through a Thai market:

The Market from Terje Sorgjerd on Vimeo.

That previous market was at Samut Songkhram, however this one's at Bangkok's Maeklong Market. The second half of this video is of the floating market at Damnoen Saduak, 80km south west of Bangkok. Thailand is full of floating markets – this one is the most famous, and another is currently being created in Hua Hin a few kilometres from where we live.

2011 books

Jan. 23rd, 2011 07:01 pm
peteryoung: (Tao)


5) Fa Poonvoralak, The Most Silent School in the World, 2009
This came highly recommended from Marcel Barang, who also wrote the introduction to last year's English edition, describing it as "a literary UFO". Thailand isn't really on the map for wildly imaginative fiction, let alone science fiction and fantasy, so discovering something so unusual and category-defying was rather unexpected, particularly considering that this was also short-listed for the 2009 SEA Write Award. It's the story of eight schoolchildren of mixed ages at a riverside school in rural Thailand. They turn up when they want, night or day, there are no teachers, they play games with each other, not a great deal happens that's different from one day to the next, and they're not being groomed for a life in society. That's because in our plane of existence they're not really children at all: they're the eight Trigrams of Taoist cosmology, given English/Thai names like Water Nam, Mountain Pukao and Sky Fa. Then they are visited by eight more 'echo children' from the Moon who are all subtly different, then more children arrive from the rings of Saturn, the Oort Cloud, the Sun and various other places around the solar system. They speculate if their school may in fact be some kind of spaceship. They've finally multiplied to sixty-four – the same number of pairings that make up the Hexagrams of the I Ching – and the physical dimensions of their school keeps on growing, instantly adding more rooms as new children arrive. How they all interact may be meant to reflect the inherent subtleties of the I Ching's Hexagrams; although this seems to be the intent it was often difficult to figure out beyond the characters of the children/Trigrams themselves.

All the above is not actually a spoiler as it would have helped to know something of the structure of the book before beginning it. It's also rather inconclusive, but then this story was written more along ancient Eastern lines than that of a linear, modern Western text, with the analogy of the 'Silent School' probably meaning the life situations contained in the I Ching itself, and the physical school representing an expansion of an octagonal ba gua arrangement of Trigrams. This book is both perplexing and entertaining, and for someone who's long been interested in both creative fiction and the inner working of the I Ching it's also a rare and valuable find, regrettably one that I doubt will be showing up at many bookstores outside of Thailand.

2010 books

Nov. 18th, 2010 11:19 pm
peteryoung: (Default)


48) Chart Korbjitti, Carrion Floating By, 1987
You're driving at night and fall asleep at the wheel, triggering a car crash: in Thailand, this makes you fair game for everyone else involved who will claim compensation for injuries, damage and loss of income, and the cost to you now has to be negotiated and bargained. You're now carrion for the vultures who all want a piece of you, but when you happen to work in advertising, doesn't this then become tit-for-tat? This is a dryly amusing book and mildly satirical even though it's deliberately light on laughs. Told throughout in the second person, Korbjitti intended the narrator's gender to be undetermined but this somehow became lost in the translation from Thai to English, with his friend and translator Marcel Barang opting, at key points, to provide a male narrator. There are also a few more translation errors of the loose/lose variety as well as a few incorrect adjectival nouns scattered here and there which spoil a translation that otherwise reads very fluently. I'm getting to understand Korbjitti's point of view: he's uncompromisingly socialist, and the books I've read so far have been well-observed and unremittingly mundane in subject matter, yet with an emotional impact reserved for the closing scenes that has so far never failed to hit the mark.

2010 books

Sep. 18th, 2010 09:29 am
peteryoung: (Valis)


44) Paolo Bacigalupi, The Windup Girl, 2009
This is offered less as a review and more as a set of notes and commentary, which I may also add to later. I planned to read both this and Robert Charles Wilson's Julian Comstock before last weekend's Aussiecon but, family life being what it is, I got too far behind and I only finished The Windup Girl a couple of days after the Hugo Awards. Needless to say I was pleased that it shared the 'Best Novel' with my favourite novel of last year (Miéville's The City & The City), not only because it is a very strong novel and worthy winner but also because it's rare to see my adopted country featured so prominently in western SF, and award-winning SF at that – The Windup Girl has grabbed the Nebula, the Compton Crook Award and now the Hugo (and was also one of Time magazine's Notable Books of the Year), while China's novel has bagged the BSFA, the Clarke and now also the Hugo.

  • The future setting:  In The Windup Girl Thailand in the 23rd century is one of the few successful countries in a world in which so many have succumbed to poverty since the Contraction, the massive scaling down of the world's economy that began with the scarcity of oil, and its success is put down to its independence and bloody-minded refusal to give in to external economic forces that pressure its borders, in much the same way that Bangkok is shored up against the rising waters of the Gulf of Thailand by huge levées that keep the city from drowning. Thailand is resisting any dependence on genetically engineered food created by the same Western conglomerates that have plagued the rest of the world with biological nightmares and botanical disasters, but a series of unconnected events are threatening to compromise that stubborn independence. What shouts louder than most of the themes of The Windup Girl are the socio-economic pressures that influence everything in this future time, filtering all the way down from the large corporations to the fruit sellers and rickshaw drivers of Bangkok's streets.

  • Look! Zeppelins!  'Biopunk' is not exactly a new portmanteau on the block, but I expect that given time The Windup Girl will eventually be properly separated from that misnomer 'steampunk' – unfortunately I've both seen and heard the novel described as such, and this novel doesn't even come close. Yes, it's a future that necessarily has zeppelins but it neither comes across as a box-ticking exercise on Bacigalupi's part nor an indulgence in a current SFnal obsession. The biological and botanical aspects are far more prominent in respect to the final shape of the novel (and its proper categorisation) than merely a cool method of transport that only appears occasionally.

  • The politics:  The Windup Girl doesn't present a complete picture of the politics of the time (nor does it have to), but I felt there were some omissions. There are conflicting Ministries shaking Bangkok apart but with little or no controlling hand of a Prime Minister of whatever political stripe, although reference is occasionally made to a 'December 12 incident' which weakened the political foundations of the nation. The Thai Royal Family is still the focus of allegiance in Thai society, figureheaded in the form of a young Queen, and the biggest problem for me of the entire book was how Bacigalupi enables Akkarat, the powerful head of the Trade Ministry, to be able to simply commandeer the Thai military to slap down another Ministry in a very warlike fashion. It's not even a proper civil war, it's a governmental war. Whilst it's true that, even today, there are factions within the military that are a little more vocal with their political affiliations than they strictly ought to be, I felt that with everyone falling over themselves to prove their loyalty to the Queen, it didn't ring true that the Thai military were freely available for the use of whichever government Ministry was in the ascendancy, and particularly for use against another arm of government. With loyalty to their Royal head of state and not the government or any arm of it, I strongly doubt that the military would allow itself to be used in such as partisan way, even given the mistaken reason for which it was done. But I'll give Bacigalupi the benefit of the doubt here as I'm curious if there is an actual precedent in Thailand's political history that has seen ideologically-opposed factions of government battling it out on the capital's streets. Given that this is Thailand, I would not say it's out of the question.

  • Naming and title conventions:  The liaison between the 23rd century Thai Royal Family and the outside world is conducted by the Queen's protector, a powerful character titled the Somdet Chaopraya. This was a good choice of title. 'Somdej' (with a 'j') today is usually reserved as a title for royalty beneath the rank of King or Queen, but it is also a title that can be applied to buildings with royal connections, such as a hospital, hence carrying the meaning 'by royal appointment'. 'Chao Phraya' is more commonly understood as the modern name of the major river that runs through Bangkok, however the two terms brought together in the form of 'Somdej Chao Phraya' have a much older significance as a now-obsolete title in feudal Thai society, meaning 'Grand Duke'. It was awarded to male commoners only under extraordinary circumstances and only to those with great achievements. There is also a Somdet Chaopraya Road in present day Bangkok, but let's not allow that to confuse matters.

  • 23rd century folklore:  Chapter 24 mentions three real people important to 23rd century Thai folklore: the Ven. Ajahn Chanh ('ajahn' means 'teacher'), a Buddhist monk and teacher of meditation; the writer Chart Korbjitti, who I've been reading, and Seub Nakhasathien, a Thai environmentalist who took his own life in 1990 after his failure to protect a wildlife sanctuary from logging and dam construction.

  • Are the Thai characters recognisably Thai?  The Thailand of The Windup Girl sometimes felt like Thailand in name and location only: it could be a less-than-wholesome Singapore, or even a believably gritty Hong Kong. Half-way through I had begun to feel that Bacigalupi had lost his feel for the Thai people and how Thais conduct themselves on the everyday level: the Thais in the novel might not be recognisably Thai in the present day, they could in fact be from almost any South East Asian nation. While they've retained their deference and politeness it seems everyone has lost most of their capacity for happiness which, culturally speaking, is actually seen as an important strand in the present-day national character, this being the Land of Smiles. But this is a different Thailand in the 23rd Century, one that (perhaps a little belatedly, in Chapter 30) Bacigalupi acknowledges may be unrecognisable:
    Jaidee always insisted that the Kingdom was a happy country, that old story about the Land of Smiles. But Kanya cannot think of a time when she has seen smiles as wide as those in museum photos from before the Contraction. She sometimes wonders if those people in the photos were acting, if perhaps the National Gallery is intending to depress her, or if it is really true that at one point people smiled so totally, so fearlessly.
    This is a small paragraph but it's actually a rather necessary one, the like of which I felt the book could not really have done without. It also holds up a mirror of sorts to the lives of just about all the characters in The Windup Girl: they all have those wrenching moments in which the future that they planned for is supplanted by something considerably less promising, even something that they feared. Thais are an optimistic people and usually retain that optimism even in the face of dire poverty, so, given that the Thailand of The Windup Girl is a successful country on its own terms where others have failed badly, I'd say that given the shape the world is in Bacigalupi has extrapolated a possible future for the Thai national character rather well – they have had to pay a high price in everyday happiness, but the rest of the world has generally fared much worse.
  • 2010 books

    Jul. 23rd, 2010 08:28 am
    peteryoung: (Bookworm)


    39) Chart Korbjitti, Time, 1993
    A Thai film director goes to the theatre to see what has been billed as Bangkok's most boring play of the year, in which half a dozen elderly women live their usual uneventful day in a care home for the aged. That may sound like a very dull premise for a novel, and it is, but deliberately so. Time earned Korbjitti his second SEA Write Award, and to find out why means ploughing through two hundred pages of mundane dialogue mixed with some minor personal crises. There are some winning passages in which Korbjitti gets people to look at their own lives in relation to what's being acted out on the stage; these are the novel's most interesting aspects as the sheer dullness of these ladies' existence – as people essentially discarded from Thai society – makes for tough reading because there is so little in what they do that will engage a reader. We often don't expect to encounter such uninteresting everyday activity in a novel let alone on a stage, so it's only the varieties of circumstantial self-reflection and analysis that Korbjitti puts a few of his characters through that will give Time any value. Does he succeed? Within such a deliberately uneventful book it's the journey's end here that matters, and I doubt I will read a book this year that has a better ending. Its conclusion was so unexpectedly moving, as well as being downright clever, that it left me speechless and made me pause for five minutes before I could do anything else. Time may have an empty vacuum at its heart, but it's a worthwhile and rewarding experience and – after some further introspection – only a superficially hard journey getting there.
    peteryoung: (Default)
    One degree of separation: several years ago my wife met the renegade Thai general Khattiya Sawasdipol, aka. 'Seh Daeng' or 'Commander Red', who was the strategist behind much of the Red Shirt's street fighting tactics in Bangkok last month. He was cremated today in Bangkok. She met him at the funeral of her best friend's mother, as during his rise to notoriety and years before the tense political climate that exists today he had befriended that particular family with the spoken intention of getting to know Aom better (Aom is the lady in the middle in this photo with Miles), and he actually turned into a bit of a stalker for a while. Bizarrely, at the funeral Seh Daeng took the opportunity to give my wife and others free copies of his latest autobiographical best-seller based on his own exaggerated military exploits. On the cover is a charming photo of him pointing his gun at the reader. It's remaining untouched on our shelves where it's kept purely for its curiosity value at the moment, but while we have it it will remain unread. And because he'd paid his respects to her mother, Aom said she would also be going to Seh Daeng's funeral today even though she had absolutely no admiration for him.

    Seh Daeng is survived by one daughter, now a 29 year-old lawyer who reportedly hated what her father had become and has also been an active campaigner for the government-supporting Yellow Shirts. Since his death she's presented a very different face when talking about her late father, and is now planning to work for a small political party he founded in his own name, the Khattiyatham Party. People are inevitably wondering "why the sudden switch?" Seh Daeng received plenty of cash from ex-PM-on-the-run Thaksin Shinawatra, the billionaire puppet master behind the UDD Red Shirt movement and who's currently doing his "Ich bin ein Berliner" speech everywhere from Cambodia to Swaziland, travelling the world on both Nicaraguan and Montenegran passports. In fact his visit to Cambodia last November to act as 'economic adviser' raised eyebrows and even annoyed many of his supporters in Thailand; it has since caused more alarm in that many of the weapons found in Seh Daeng's Red Shirt protest camp in central Bangkok, such as M-79 grenade launchers, are not used by either the Thai military or police. So where did they come from? They are easily found and bought in Cambodia, where Thaksin is now reported to have secretly met his UDD supporters near the Thai border. As an investigation it's turning into a case of 'follow the money'. And the suspicion is now that more "money from Montenegro", as Thaksin's bankrolling activities are now euphemistically known, may be swaying Seh Daeng's daughter's political allegiances too.
    peteryoung: (9/11)
    Plan A
  • 14th April – Go home to Hua Hin from London with suitcase full of kids' clothes and toys. Stay one night in Bangkok before taking bus to Hua Hin the next day. Stay a week, return to Bangkok on the 23rd, then scrounge a lift back to London on a standby ticket with an empty suitcase (at 00:20 on 24th) as that day's flight still has plenty of space.

    Plan B
  • 15th April – after suitcase doesn't arrive on my flight (it's "probably" still in London), arrange for it to be sent to Hua Hin when it does arrive, probably on the next flight on the 16th. Instead of staying a night, take 2-hour bus journey to Hua Hin, dutifully marvel at wife's new haircut, remind son of his absentee father, fall asleep for ten hours.

    Plan C
  • 16th April – Ash cloud from Olympus Mons spreads to Earth and shuts down European civilisation. Can't contact BA's London Baggage Tracing office from Thailand as the only numbers in my possession are 0800 and 0845 codes. Bangkok Baggage Tracing are more certain suitcase is stranded at Heathrow Terminal 3, 10,000 kilometres away; ask them to send a message to London not to forward the suitcase but send it to father's address in the UK instead.

    Plan D
  • 17th April – Ask family member in UK to call BA Baggage Tracing to confirm they have my instructions. BA are not answering the phone on either number. Travel three hours further south to in-laws' place in remote Bang Saphan, where they've just discovered something called the internet.
  • 18th April – BA still not answering the phone. Hear that Western civilisation has shut down completely, suitcase could be anywhere, possibly in the rings of Saturn where most lost luggage ends up. Forget about the suitcase, I probably won't see it again and anyway, everything inside can be replaced.

    Plan E
  • 19th April – Get a call on my mobile from BA in London, they have my suitcase in Terminal 3 but the entire resources of the World's Favourite Baggage Loser aren't sufficient to send it anywhere at the moment as they are "snowed under". (So, snow in April too. The planet's ecosystem must indeed be falling apart.) Ask them to keep suitcase until I arrive, possibly later this year or early next. E-mail my manager to tell her I am one of the millions of travellers who are tragically dislocated and dispossessed, and almost certainly unable to return to work on the 25th as planned.

    Plan F
  • 20th April – Via Thai television and translated by spouse into English, there are rumours of flights resuming from London to Bangkok, but BA's website says everything to/from Bangkok is still cancelled and their Bangkok office is telling travellers there are no flights planned. Do some research by making a few calls. Try to enjoy the 40ºC heat and turn up the air conditioning another notch. Plan on returning to Bangkok to catch first available flight, undoubtedly on a jump-seat if I can get on at all, on an as yet undetermined date.

    Plan G
  • 21st April – More research: our contacts in BKK engineering are saying there will be a BA flight at 00:20 tomorrow morning despite conflicting advice. Drive six hours north to Bangkok to attempt to catch that flight. Our old car breaks down twice with an overheated fuel pump, return to Bang Saphan, wonder why I'm bothering at all, why not just stay here and not return to Old Blighty for just one week. Remind myself I need to work to feed the family, I have a suitcase to collect, a car to sell and a wedding to go to. The flight does leave but without me on it, but it's no great tragedy yet. Consider flying to Hong Kong on the 24th as a last resort, where Cathay Pacific and BA have a combined six flights a day to London compared to the one available to me at Bangkok.

    Plan H
  • 22 April – Finally get to Bangkok, arrive at airport nice and early to try for the flight at 00:20 on the 23rd but BA have cancelled as no plane has arrived from Sydney. Airport is packed and tempers are evidently fraying. Qantas has an embargo on staff travel, and Thai Airways just laugh at my request for a jump-seat. Fair enough, but no harm in asking. Become amused by the conversation of a group of coddled Scandinavians who are treating this like it's the evacuation of Saigon: "Why isn't Stockholm doing anything? Take us back home!" Me, I'm actually grateful for one more night with the family. Hear alarming stories about Cathay Pacific's dreadful treatment of passengers in Hong Kong; they actually don't want any more people turning up from elsewhere in Asia trying to get to Europe. Okay, forget about trying that route.

    All of which comes back to:

    Plan A
  • 23 April – Arrive at airport, scrounge a lift on the BA flight at 00:20 on the 24th as originally intended ten days ago. Huzzah! A jump-seat's available. In gratitude, buy the crew a box of duty-free chocolates which always goes down well. At Terminal 3 pick up suitcase which actually never went to Saturn. BA have even attached a note to the suitcase apologising for not putting it on my flight to Bangkok.


    Moral of the story: travel is either an adventure, or it isn't. The choice is yours. Before leaving make alternative arrangements that keep your options open, and when things do go wrong, anticipate, do your research, be resourceful and keep your sense of humour and a cool head, no matter what.
  • peteryoung: (Default)
    I'm currently in Phoenix, Arizona, not Bangkok, although I will be passing through Bangkok on Thursday 15th before taking the train south to Hua Hin on the 16th, and then driving a further three hours south to see the family in Bang Saphan, well away from the trouble. Bangkok is actually 95% perfectly safe, if you avoid the Khao San Road, the big malls like Siam Paragon and areas with government offices.

    Everyone's getting pretty distressed about what happened in Bangkok yesterday, on what's already become known as Black Saturday. After the events of the last week, Thaksin's rent-a-crowd barmy army – the 'Red Shirts' who want the government dissolved – can no longer claim any pretence towards peaceful protest: their more aggressive factions were seen covering CCTV cameras before storming government buildings, a TV station and military posts, while answering rubber bullets with petrol bombs and AK-47s which of course must have suddenly materialised out of thin air. The result: 20 dead and 800 injured.

    A good source of on-the-spot info and opinion has actually been Somtow Sucharitkul's frequent Facebook updates and blog; the best newspaper coverage has probably been from the independent paper The Nation, which has now published a timeline of yesterday's events.

    I would like my son to be able to grow up in a more stable country than this, and I fully expect he will. The Red Shirts, who, if they disconnected from their blind loyalty to Thaksin, are fully capable of becoming an effective opposition party if they would only do some actual politics; meanwhile Abhisit's Democrat-led coalition government have been continuing Thaksin's better policies in assisting the poor. Since being deposed and exposed as a crook, Thaksin was succeeded by a military government then two vote-buying, stunt-Thaksin PMs who both lost their jobs in disgrace before the current coalition government had to be formed. Abhisit is anything but a "tyrant", as a Red Shirt leader is now describing him. There is a long way to go before this country straightens itself out, and at the moment the Red Shirts are discrediting themselves all the way down the line, which I find very sad indeed as the non-violent majority are just the country's poor trying to speak up for themselves.

    Most Popular Tags